A KAYAK TRIP ON SAANICH INLET

Brentwood Bay to Spectacle Creek & McKenzie Bight on Squally Reach

If you’re looking for great semi-wilderness paddling getaway in reasonably sheltered waters, look no further than Saanich Inlet. You’ll be surrounded by nature cradled in the steep forested slopes of this beautiful dogleg fjord.

The whole of Saanich Inlet is big, encompassing Saanich Inlet proper, Brentwood Bay, Squally Reach and Finlayson Arm. Exploring all of it in a single day by kayak can be a little daunting. It is roughly 7 nautical miles (nm) or 13 km, from the put in at Brentwood Bay to the Goldstream Estuary following the shoreline, making for a 14 nm or 26 km return journey not accounting for any crossings to explore the opposite shore. Squally Reach, the portion of the inlet running southwest from Willis Point is about 3/4 nm or 1.4 km across, gradually narrowing as you turn south into Finlayson Arm.

This trip explores most of Squally Reach, which entails a 7.2 nm or 13.3 km return trip from the put in at Brentwood Bay.

The Put In

The easiest way to access this portion of Saanich Inlet is at Brentwood Bay. There is a boat launch just to the left of the BC Ferries Dock right next door to the Brentwood Bay Resort & Spa on Verdier Ave. By the way, a great place to stop for a little libation after your paddle!

There is a small park there with a convenient loading area where you can park your vehicle while unloading your kayak and gear. There is a paved path leading down to a gravel beach where you can launch your boat. It’s not far to the water, but a kayak cart does comes in handy, especially if you’re by yourself! There are also heated public washrooms right there, so don’t be afraid to have that cup of coffee before you leave home!

The put in at Brentwood Bay beside the BC Ferry Dock

Brentwood Bay

Before dashing out of Brentwood Bay, it’s fun to poke around the docks to the right of the ferry dock. There are some great old buildings and docks here including Abernethy & Gaudin Boatbuilders Ltd who are an award winning boat builder and restorer. Their bright red building is hard to miss and there are usually one or two beautiful classic boats tied up at the docks.

Classic wooden sailboat in front of Abernethy & Gaudin Boatbuilding, Brentwood Bay

Exercise caution as you paddle across Brentwood Bay as there can be a lot of boat traffic and stay well clear of the BC Ferry dock. I always like to remind people to keep their head on swivel in these heavily trafficked areas. Paddle craft may generally have the right of way, but always remember…tonnage wins! The nice thing is, once you are out of Brentwood Bay you quickly leave the busy boat traffic behind.

The Route

On this exploration I left Brentwood and headed straight across to Willis Point on the southwest corner of Brentwood Bay, passing the entrance to Tod Inlet the left. Tod Inlet is a beautiful place to explore as well. For more on paddling Tod Inlet check out the post I did for Ocean River Sports: Kayaking Tod Inlet

Willis Point

At Willis Point you can look across at McCurdy Point on the far side of the inlet. If you look up on top of the ridge you will see the Malahat Skywalk, Victoria’s newest tourist attraction. If you haven’t been there it is actually worth checking out. My wife Linda, and I were doing a post for VisitorinVictoria and had the opportunity to go. It’s a beautiful location, great views and a fun ride down on the spiral slide! Check out our post: The Malahat Skywalk.

Malahat Skywalk

Spectacle Creek Falls

The hillsides along Squally Reach are covered in Douglas fir, Cedar and Arbutus trees. The shoreline is steep and rocky with few places to get out of your boat. About a 1/2 nm around from McCurdy Point is a beautiful waterfall on Spectacle Creek plunging off the rocky ridge. The creek outflow has formed a nice gravel delta which is a great place to get out, stretch the legs and have a look around and maybe have some lunch. This spot is pretty obviously used as a campsite as there is a large rock fire pit and a fair bit of debris lying around.

McCurdy Point – Note the Malahat Skywalk

Rocky cliffs below McCurdy Point

The beauty of Vancouver Island is being able to paddle all year round, and winter is definitely the best time to visit these falls when the water levels in the rivers and creeks are high. During the dry summer months Spectacle Creek is reduced to a trickle.

Waterfall at Spectacle Creek

Waterfall on Spectacle Creek

Stairway to No Where

Just before you get to the waterfall, you will pass a rather interesting and quite elaborate stone and concrete staircase, which appears quite old. It looks like it was the grand entrance to a mansion. However, this is not the case. It is quite literally ‘a stairway to nowhere’. I got out and explored the forest up on the hillside expecting to find the remains of a home or at least a foundation or flat spot where a home might have been. However, there was nothing to be found except an old overgrown road and a collapsing outhouse complete with a crescent moon in the door.

The Staircase to No Where

I posted a photo of the stairway on Facebook, on a group I belong to called ‘You Know You’re From Victoria, BC When…’ . I asked if anyone knew anything about it. One member of the group was able to shed some light on the subject. Apparently this landmark was created for a movie, ‘Commandos Strike at Dawn’, filmed in 1942 and was left as is after the shoot. From other comments made on the post it sounds like whatever was shot here for the movie didn’t make the final cut…too bad!

Looking Southwest towards Finlayson Arm from the ‘Staircase to No Where’

Outhouse door above the ‘staircase to no where’

McKenzie Bight

After some exploring and photography, it was time to get back in the boat and head back. I opted to head straight across from McCurdy Point to McKenzie Bight. McKenzie Bight is part of Gowlland Tod Provincial Park. There is a hiking trail down to the bight from a parking area at the base of Mount Work very near the intersection of Willis Point Rd and Ross Durrance Rd. This is a beautiful section of Saanich Inlet with a large gravel beach and a rocky point with beautiful orange barked arbutus trees. Pease Creek flows out from the forest into the inlet during the winter months, but pretty much dries up during the summer.

I followed the shoreline back to Willis Point heading towards the take-out in Brentwood Bay. Once you’re out of McKenzie Bight you will start to see lots of homes and docks along the shoreline of Willis Point. It kind of spoils the semi-wilderness adventure of the rest of the paddle.

Approaching McKenzie Bight

McKenzie Bight

Follow the shoreline back to Willis Point and the take out in Brentwood Bay. Once you’re out of McKenzie Bight you will see lots of homes and docks along the shoreline of Willis Point kind of spoiling the semi-wilderness adventure of the rest of the paddle.

As you’re crossing Brentwood Bay, keep a sharp eye out for other boaters. The bay can be full of them, especially in the summer and, stay well clear of the BC Ferry dock.