DEATH VALLEY

April 11, 2015

We got up early this morning (5:15 am), to drive out to Dante’s Viewpoint (about a ½ hour drive!) to witness the sunrise! The drive is from below sea level at our campground (24C/75F) to over 5,000 ft at the parking lot (5C/41F). We got there in plenty of time and watched as the rising sun changed the landscape by the minute. It was quite lovely, but not quite as dramatic as we’d hoped. It seemed quite hazy at times and the colours weren’t as vivid as we’d thought they’d be … but still a worthy adventure.

Dante’s Viewpoint

Back to the mo-ho and a grand breakfast of hash browns, eggs and bacon … a real treat after such an early start!

We then moved over to ‘Sunset’ Campground, which is also run by the National Park Service but only $12/night (compared to Furnace Creek at $30). There are no services or hookups although there is 1 (of 3) bathrooms open for toilet/sink use only. BUT … it’s a HUGE place and this time of year we’re only 1 of about a dozen other people widely scattered around. It’s got a great view of the mountains on one side, and palm trees on the other side. And it’s QUIET! Much (MUCH) better.

Sunset Campground

Furnace Creek village not far from our campsite

After moving to the new site we were off to do more exploring. We drove 55 miles North up to a place called ‘Scotty’s Castle’ – a true marvel in this forbidding landscape.

The story goes: back in around 1914 an enterprising fellow by the name of Walter Scott who had been traveling with the Buffalo Bill’s “Wild West Show” turned into a con man luring ‘investors’ with tales of a lucrative gold mine he’d found in Death Valley.

Scotty’s Castle

check out the ‘pool’!

One of those possible investors named Albert Johnson wanted to inspect this mining operation in person. He eventually found out about the scam, but ended up befriending the con man (now known as Scotty) and they became lifelong friends.

Albert also came to love the valley’s dry, warm climate and the 2 of them spent many years traveling the desert. He eventually brought out his wife, Bessie who was equally taken with the area and in 1922 they began to build a grand ‘vacation’ home in Grapevine Canyon where there was a natural spring which poured out more than 200 gallons of water per minute!

Scotty’s castle

The 3 of them lived in this grand ‘castle’ finding luxury and tranquility in their home and surroundings. The home today is maintained and protected by the NPS and is available for tours of the inside ($15/person) or you can wander around outside on your own. We opted for the wandering part as it’s VERY busy with tour groups coming in by the drove! You really need to make a reservation if you’re inclined to take a tour – even at this time of year!

We stopped along the way at the old Harmony Borax works … this mineral was mined extensively here in the past and you may have seen commercials (if you’re old enough) of the ’20 Mule Team Borax’ … well … this is where it all happened! Very interesting.

Harmony Borax Works

We also stopped at the Ubehebe Crater. Just a few hundred years ago, a massive volcanic explosion caused by magma mixing with an underground spring, shattered the silence of northern Death Valley. When the cinders and dust settled, this 600ft deep crater remained. You can hike around the rim for a 1.5 mile loop hike – which we didn’t take as it was VERY hot and VERY windy and to be honest, it looked like you’re simply walking around a bare and forbidding path with not a lot more to see.

Ubehebe Crater

We stopped in on the way back to Stovepipe Wells Village to scope out the camping there as we’ll move there tomorrow. We’ve pretty much explored what we can in a 2-WD car in the Furnace Creek area, so we’ll head there as it’s on the way we’ll take out of the park in a day or 2.

Back to camp and sitting in the shade and sweating. I’m not sure how sleeping will be tonight as it’s just not cooling down! We ran the generator for a bit to power the air conditioning but it’s so noisy I felt badly for doing so. It did help a bit so hopefully we’ll be ok!