April 12, 2015
We made it through the night – but it was a hot and restless one! It doesn’t cool off much at night here – you basically only get the benefit of the sun going down and that’s it!
Up early and made our move to Stovepipe Wells Village which is the 2nd of 3 main ‘villages’ (Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Village and Panamint Springs) with campgrounds in the park. At Stovepipe Wells Campground we had a choice of a full-service site (with lots of people) or a ‘dry’ camping spot – no services for $12/night – but hardly any people. This was our choice and we’re camped right up against the desert with views on 3 sides towards mountain ranges – very nice!
Stovepipe Wells Campground
As soon as we pulled into camp we were off again in the car to Salt Creek to see the rare desert pupfish. This area was once a large lake, but after the ice age, the climate changed and the lake dried up, forcing most life – pupfish or human – to congregate near the permanent water sources or to adapt to extremely dry conditions. Since then the desert pupfish have survived in isolated springs – warm as 90F and in streams up to five times as salty as ocean water.
The interpretive trail is on a boardwalk to preserve the surrounding natural streams, and is about ½ mile round trip. Even that short a trip in this heat was enough to almost do me in! We had planned on another hike but it will have to wait till early tomorrow morning before the heat is too intense. For now it’s back to the mo-ho and perhaps a siesta!
Desert Pupfish
Salt Creek Walk
Later … We’ve spent the afternoon in the sparse shade of our mo-ho awning. The heat is oppressive – 36C/96F (humidity of around 12% – 15%) in the shade. The heat is like a presence … crowding you out of your own skin. A breeze kicks up every once in a while, but it only serves to create dust devils … there is no cooling in it. The mountain ranges surrounding the desert serves to keep the heat in and does not allow it to dissipate.
Stayin’ in the shade on wing night at Stovepipe Village Campground
We got away from it for a while as the resort across the street has a pool that you can use for $4/day. Well worth the money and I wish I could spend more time there but … alas … even in a pool our skin is baking like the chicken wings we’re having for supper tonight! The campground attendant told us the campground is closing on Wednesday April 15th … anyone here after that would have to go to one of the pricier campgrounds with full hookups. You’d want to anyway, just to use your air conditioner! And it’s not even summer yet!!
We scooted out at dusk to photograph the Mesquite Dunes at sunset. They’re quite amazing! We’ll go again tomorrow morning to get some sunrise photos as well … it’ll make for another early morning but the shadows on the dunes will be worth it!
sand patterns at dusk
Dunes at dusk
Dunes at dusk
A lovely evening sitting out looking at stars … the sky seems to go on forever! We got the telescope out and had a great time identifying the constellations, nebulas & planets. Combine that with a ‘wee dram’ of Scotch … a very fine evening indeed!
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